Chicken with black mushrooms

Chicken was a staple on the menu for farm children. But we never tired of the ways that our parents could elevate the simple but carefully grown bird into something approaching gourmet. This Sunday specialty had variations depending on whether my mother or my father cooked it. But the Chinese dried mushrooms would always be fat and juicy, full of the gravy with its distinct flavour of rum. And the chicken would be firm and big-boned, subtly spiced with the ginger and fresh pimento or hot pepper.
Chinese dried mushrooms soaking in water

In countries where they distinguish between fryers (three pound birds barely grown in eight weeks) and roasters (five or six pound birds with hefty dark legs and broad chests), choose the roaster for this stew. In some places, you may be able to buy ex-layers (or spent hens) - these are birds that spent their lifetime of two years or more as layers - and these make wonderful stews if you have a pressure cooker. But today, we'll stew a roaster. As far as possible, cut up and season the chicken the day before.

Chicken, about 4-5 pounds, jointed or cut up in pieces
Salt, teaspoon and a half or to taste
Soy sauce, three tablespoons
Ginger, thumb-sized piece, sliced fine
Garlic, three cloves, chopped

Pimento, two or three chopped
Tomatoes, two chopped
Oil, half cup
Brown sugar, three tablespoons
Hot pepper, optional
Rum, preferably dark, half cup

Chinese dried mushrooms, about 24

Season the chicken the day before with salt, soy sauce, ginger and garlic. Refrigerate overnight.

Before cooking the chicken, soak the mushrooms in water to cover. Rinse and squeeze out. Put to boil in water to cover. When the mushrooms are boiling, cool and rinse again in cold water. Squeeze out the water just before adding to the chicken.

At least two hours before you expect to eat, cook the chicken. Heat the oil in a skillet or iron pot, add the brown sugar. When the sugar is bubbling, add the pieces of chicken (reserve the marinade), turning to brown. Let the chicken brown by continuing to cook in the open pot, turning frequently, for 15 to 20 minutes.

When you are satisfied that the chicken is nicely browned, add the marinade, tomatoes, pimento and more ginger if you wish. Cover and cook at low-medium heat for 30 minutes, turning every five or ten minutes. You should not need to add water. Add mushrooms and rum, turning well. Cover and cook at low heat for a further 20 minutes. Stir to ensure that the mushrooms go between the pieces of chicken. Continue cooking until the meat is soft. Place a whole hot pepper on top and re-cover the pot for the last 10 minutes.

Chicken with chinese mushrooms, stir-fried veggies on the side

Serve with a vegetable chow like this one, and steamed rice.

Cauliflower, one head, cut into florets
Broccoli, one head, cut into florets
Chinese cabbage, or head of patchoi, or half a regular cabbage, cut in slices
Sweet pepper, sliced and seeds removed
Olive oil, three tablespoons
Garlic, two cloves, chopped
Ginger, small piece, chopped
Salt to taste
Black pepper

Boil water in a small pot - add cauliflower and broccoli when the water is boiling. Continue to boil for no more than two minutes. Drain and rinse with cold water.

Heat oil. Add garlic and ginger and salt (half teaspoon). When the ginger is sizzling, add the cabbage and stir fry for a minute or so. Add cauliflower and broccoli, stirring while frying at medium-high heat, for about two minutes. Add sweet pepper and continue to stir-fry for another minute. Remove from heat and sprinkle a dash of coarse ground black pepper. Serve immediately.

Stir-fried vegetables

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