Some Sundays, my mother would boil a whole chicken. Far from the plain pale dish that you might conjure in your mind, it was an economical but flavourful meal with noodles and a cornucopia of greens and vegetables that left you satisfied and feeling virtuous for having eaten so well so heartily and yet so simply.
Well before we used to enjoy Mummy's "pak cham kai" which she called it in the Cantonese dialect, our grandfathers were well-known for making one chicken serve the extended family. All parts of those chickens were utilised in the meal: from the comb (if it was a cock) to the feet; and included liver, gizzard, heart, lungs and cock's eggs. We children were well-versed in the anatomy of a hen or cock even though we hardly ever saw the leg, thigh or any part intact on our plates.
When this August (2015) issue of the Bon Appetit magazine featured Sichuan Chicken with Noodles (http://www.bonappetit.com/recipe/sichuan-style-chicken-with-rice-noodles), I read with my taste buds and travelled back almost 50 years to my mother's kitchen. When my mother's grand-daughter in far-off Australia came down with a bad sore throat and cold, I imagined the remedy, the soup from a whole chicken replete with ginger, pearl barley, patchoi, lo bok (daikon, moorai, white turnip). I decided to make it.
Here's the 2015 version of my mother's Pak Cham Kai, or the more fashionable Sichuan Chicken with Noodles.
The Chicken
The wholesome chickens that are grown by my friend in Santa Cruz average four to five pounds cleaned. I prepare one of the smaller ones (four pounds) by making sure the inside is empty of lungs, kidneys etc; and salt overnight: one to two tablespoons salt applied in the cavity and the space between leg and breast.
The chicken is not "boiled" at high heat, but rather poached or simmered. In a large pot - I used an eight quart pressure cooker half full of water - bring the water to boil with three or four star anise; tablespoon of whole peppercorns; thumb-size ginger, sliced; scallions (or onion bulbs of chive); one-quarter cup of soy sauce. Place the whole chicken in the liquid - make sure it is submerged (add a little more water if necessary) - and reduce heat to simmer. Cook uncovered for an hour, turning chicken once. After an hour, remove the chicken to a plate and allow to cool. The chicken will have a natural glaze from its own fat.
The Rice Noodles
Use the broth to cook eight ounces of rice noodles. Usually these cook within six to eight minutes. Drain noodles from broth and sprinkle with olive oil (or sesame or grapeseed). Use the broth to cook your vegetables: broccoli; lo bok; carrots; patchoi; sweet peppers. You shouldn't need to add any seasonings. Drain vegetables and pile into the dish with the noodles.
The Broth
You have the basis of a rich chicken soup, which may be enhanced with pearl barley; pumpkin, carrots, any vegetables or greens which you may have on hand. If the broth is a little salty, cube a potato and add it.
Serve the chicken sliced or jointed, accompanied by the noodles and vegetables.
Any chicken leftover may be used in sandwiches; or chicken salad. this chicken is infused with the fragrance of star anise which is the star ingredient alongside a wholesome farmed chicken.
Well before we used to enjoy Mummy's "pak cham kai" which she called it in the Cantonese dialect, our grandfathers were well-known for making one chicken serve the extended family. All parts of those chickens were utilised in the meal: from the comb (if it was a cock) to the feet; and included liver, gizzard, heart, lungs and cock's eggs. We children were well-versed in the anatomy of a hen or cock even though we hardly ever saw the leg, thigh or any part intact on our plates.
When this August (2015) issue of the Bon Appetit magazine featured Sichuan Chicken with Noodles (http://www.bonappetit.com/recipe/sichuan-style-chicken-with-rice-noodles), I read with my taste buds and travelled back almost 50 years to my mother's kitchen. When my mother's grand-daughter in far-off Australia came down with a bad sore throat and cold, I imagined the remedy, the soup from a whole chicken replete with ginger, pearl barley, patchoi, lo bok (daikon, moorai, white turnip). I decided to make it.
Here's the 2015 version of my mother's Pak Cham Kai, or the more fashionable Sichuan Chicken with Noodles.
 |
| Whole Pak cham kai or Sichuan chicken, simmered with star anise and a bay leaf |
 |
| Rice noodles and vegetables cooked in chicken broth |
The Chicken
The wholesome chickens that are grown by my friend in Santa Cruz average four to five pounds cleaned. I prepare one of the smaller ones (four pounds) by making sure the inside is empty of lungs, kidneys etc; and salt overnight: one to two tablespoons salt applied in the cavity and the space between leg and breast.
 |
| Use a large pot for your whole chicken: this is an eight quart pot for a 4-5 pound chicken |
The chicken is not "boiled" at high heat, but rather poached or simmered. In a large pot - I used an eight quart pressure cooker half full of water - bring the water to boil with three or four star anise; tablespoon of whole peppercorns; thumb-size ginger, sliced; scallions (or onion bulbs of chive); one-quarter cup of soy sauce. Place the whole chicken in the liquid - make sure it is submerged (add a little more water if necessary) - and reduce heat to simmer. Cook uncovered for an hour, turning chicken once. After an hour, remove the chicken to a plate and allow to cool. The chicken will have a natural glaze from its own fat.
The Rice Noodles
Use the broth to cook eight ounces of rice noodles. Usually these cook within six to eight minutes. Drain noodles from broth and sprinkle with olive oil (or sesame or grapeseed). Use the broth to cook your vegetables: broccoli; lo bok; carrots; patchoi; sweet peppers. You shouldn't need to add any seasonings. Drain vegetables and pile into the dish with the noodles.
 |
| Pile on vegetables that have been poached in the broth |
 |
| Favourites here include broccoli, patchoi, sweet pepper |
The Broth
You have the basis of a rich chicken soup, which may be enhanced with pearl barley; pumpkin, carrots, any vegetables or greens which you may have on hand. If the broth is a little salty, cube a potato and add it.
Serve the chicken sliced or jointed, accompanied by the noodles and vegetables.
 | |
| Don't be fooled by how plain this meat looks. Flavour, fragrance and tenderness right to the bone. |
Any chicken leftover may be used in sandwiches; or chicken salad. this chicken is infused with the fragrance of star anise which is the star ingredient alongside a wholesome farmed chicken.
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