Tobago comforts

Think of Tobago, and what comes to mind: sky and sea, that famous jetty at Pigeon Point. You almost never think of food, unless it is that most difficult of dishes, curried crab and dumpling. But slow down to Tobago's pace, and surprise yourself.

Crab and dumpling is typical Tobago - soft yielding dumpling but the sweetness lies behind a hard shell! 

Mount Irvine now has a fish market. A simple concrete structure has replaced the ramshackle tables and sheds where the fishermen sold their day's catch. The new market features cleaning tables with water sprays: enough for six or ten vendors. A spacious area for the storage of fish. And a wide walkway for you, the customer, to see all the fish. We whizzed by one afternoon, then stopped and reversed. There was a sign; it said Plumhead (red fish) and Grunt (also called Georgie). As we slowed, the young entrepreneur in charge of the board ran forward to say, "We have dolphin too!" It was the magic word. He apologized, they didn't have a plate for "dolphin" yet (not flipper but a pelagic species also known as mahimahi). But he was in the process of compiling a list of plates still to be made. We settled for a six pound mahimahi from a fisherman called Farmer. He scaled and sliced with an extra sharp knife. Next to him, the older fisherman showed off his plumhead, and we got one of those suitable for steaming Chinese style. "So you want the guts too?" Farmer asked, holding aloft what's properly called roe. "Of course," I said. He laughed and winked at the other fisher-helper who would have been only too happy to take our "guts."

Plumhead redfish, just the right size for steaming

The last time in Tobago, we bought mahimahi and roe from a catch in Castara - where the price is better (after all they are further out) - just as the fish were being hauled ashore by a boy barely bigger than one of the large mahimahi. But these are just the most mercenary of observations. Get your fish anywhere you find it. In Tobago, there's a place to buy fish in every coastal village. On the road to Pigeon Point, you'll find a fish vendor. Look for regular supplies at the vendors between Lambeau and Rockley Bay. Listen for the conch call when you are in Charlotteville, then go to the market with your basin or bowl - otherwise you'll take your fish home in your bare hands.

Here are my recipes for the catch of that day.

Fried fish roe to fight for - the fisherman might hide it when he cleans your fish, but ask him for it.

FRIED FISH ROE
Mahi mahi roe is sunset colored, or salmon-pink. Rinse it well. Season with a light sprinkle of salt and crushed ginger and garlic. You can leave it in the refrigerator until breakfast if you like. When you are ready to cook, drain it but keep garlic-ginger on if you can. Dust with flour and fry in a little olive oil - not too high heat. Turn until it is well cooked through, about four to five minutes on each side. Slice and serve with pepper or chadon beni sauce.

STEAMED REDFISH
My father would cook the fish to just (under) done, so that it is moist, tender and comes off in delicate flakes. You'll know how fresh your fish is by the brightness of its eye.
The fish is cleaned and kept at room temperature before simmering gently in a steam bath. In the rudimentary beach house kitchen, I selected an iron pot large enough to take the whole fish, curved somewhat. Bring enough water to boil in the pot, not necessarily to cover the fish. Place the fish in the water with a piece of ginger. Cover the pot and simmer at low heat for 15 minutes (three pound fish). While that is simmering, mince a piece of ginger and few cloves of garlic and a small onion. Sprinkle salt over the seasonings. Heat a cup of olive oil (microwave or stove top) - do not let it smoke. Remove the fish from the pot into a large dish, and put seasonings along the side of the fish. Pour very hot oil over the seasonings on the fish. Serve immediately.

FRIED MAHIMAHI
Season mahimahi slices with a sprinkling of salt and crushed garlic. Dust with flour and fry in olive oil, turning when the underside is browned. Drain on paper. Some people like their fish with ketchup. Pepper sauce is better!

Just enough flour to create a crust that seals in flavor, fried in olive oil

FISH HEAD BROTH
My father used to say you can eat everything that comes from the sea. He would also say that you could eat every part of a fish. Fish would be cooked whole - steamed if they were large; fried dry if they were very small. Fish broth is not just brain food; it's food for brawn as well. In a little olive oil - use what you fried the roe or fish in - simmer chopped onion, garlic and ginger. Add three small quartered tomatoes and chopped pimento (seasoning pepper), a sprig of thyme and chadon beni if you have them. Dice a large potato, or three or four green figs or sweet potato, or carrot or pumpkin. Have some water boiling in a kettle.

When the vegetables are soft, add the fish head with salt. Turn to cook on all sides. Add boiling water to just cover everything. Add juice of one very large juicy lime or two smaller ones. Simmer for another five minutes.

You could also add ochros with the vegetables if you have them.

Serve the soup in large bowls, with vegetables and a bit of fish in each bowl. Sucking the eyes is supposed to improve eyesight!

Head of mahimahi for a revitalizing broth. Add lime juice at the end